Orchard.

Replacing a tree

• Remove old roots and debris; test soil pH (6.0–7.0 ideal).
• Dig holes twice the root-ball width; water in well.
• Amend with compost. Mulch 3–4″ deep, 6″ clear of trunks.
• Stake dwarfs and semi-dwarfs if wind is a concern.

Watering

• Target 1–2″ per week, deep and slow — more during July–August fruit swell.
• Use the drip lines; check moisture 6″ down before assuming they're wet.
• Cherries and peaches: steady moisture prevents cracking. Avoid wetting leaves.
• Apples and pears: regular water while fruit sizes; established trees tolerate brief dry spells.

Fertilizing

• Balanced 10-10-10 or organic: early spring, post-harvest, and mid-summer for peaches.
• Spread under the drip line; half strength on young trees.
• Go easy on nitrogen for cherries and peaches; pears appreciate potassium for sweetness.

Pruning

Prune during dormancy (late winter) unless noted. Open the canopy for air and light.

• Cherries: Vase shape; remove 20–30% of new growth.
• Pears: Central leader; thin crowded branches. Asian pears (E) may need extra thinning.
• Apples: Central leader; 20–30% annually. Keep Wolf River (D) manageable.
• Peaches & plums: Open center; up to 50% renewal pruning each year.
• Summer: Thin overloaded fruit for better size (especially peaches).

Pests & disease

• IPM first: monitor, cultural fixes, then organics.
• Common: aphids (soap spray), borers (prune out), fungal issues (airflow + cleanup).
• Net cherries and peaches against birds when fruit ripens.
• Tree-specific issues are in Health watch and the encyclopedia.

Weeds & troubleshooting

• Keep a 3–4′ weed-free ring around each trunk. Refresh mulch when it thins in summer.
• Poor fruit set: Pollination gap — see cheat sheet or encyclopedia.
• Yellow leaves: Water or nutrient stress — test soil, check irrigation.
• Cracked fruit: Uneven watering — mulch and keep the schedule steady.
• Low yields: Trees are still young; expect more after 3–5 years.
• Sick trees: Health watch; call an arborist if it spreads.